Invisible zippers are an excellent option for a sleek closure on everything from formal wear to pillow covers. They can be a little tricky to install if you've never sewn a zipper before, but with a little practice, you'll be installing seamless closures in no time! Learn to install an invisible zipper with the directions in this post, and download or print the handy graphic guide below to save the instructions for future reference.
WHAT YOU NEED:
HOW TO SEW AN INVISIBLE ZIPPER
STEP 1: FINISH EDGES
Begin with an unfinished seam (such as the seam on the back of a dress before you sew it shut) and finish the two fabric edges with your preferred technique. If desired, you can apply interfacing to each edge where you'll place the zipper to add a bit of extra reinforcement.
STEP 2: MARK ZIPPER PLACEMENT
Using tailor's chalk or another fabric marking tool, mark 3/4" from the top edges of both pieces. This will be the placement of the zipper to ensure that both sides will align. Mark a 5/8" vertical seam allowance where the invisible zipper will be placed.
STEP 3: PRESS THE ZIPPER
Unzip the zipper and carefully press the zipper tape using a low iron setting. Be careful not to touch the zipper teeth to prevent melting the zipper teeth. This is an important step that will give you a neater finish and allow the zipper to lie perfectly flat.
STEP 4: PIN THE ZIPPER IN PLACE
Place the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric. Line up the first half of the zipper tape along the marked seam allowances; the zipper teeth should come just to the edge of your seam allowance. Pin in place. If the fabric is slippery and likely to slide around, it helps to hand baste the zipper in place.
STEP 5: SEW THE FIRST SIDE
If you haven't already, swap your sewing machine foot for an invisible zipper foot. Position the zipper foot so the zipper teeth are under the foot's outer groove. Start at the top edge and stitch straight down the zipper tape until you reach the zipper stop. Once the first side of the zipper is sewn, you can flip the fabric back over to the right side and give it a gentle press.
STEP 6: CHECK ALIGNMENT
At this point, make sure the 3/4" markings on the top edge of each piece are aligned with one another. If they are not perfectly aligned the zipper will be sewn in unevenly. This is also a good time to zip up the zipper and check that both sides are oriented correctly—sometimes zippers can get twisted while you work. Adjust and re-pin if necessary.
STEP 7: SEW THE SECOND SIDE
Time to sew the zipper to the other side of your piece! Make sure the zipper coils are lying flat and then repeat steps four and five. Remember to backstitch at both the beginning and end of your seams.
QUICK TIP: TO EASILY LINE UP THE SECOND SIDE OF THE ZIPPER, ZIP IT UP AND PIN THE FRONT OF THE SECOND SIDE TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FABRIC. THEN, UNZIP THE ZIPPER, FLIP THE FABRIC OVER, AND PIN ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS IN STEP FOUR.
STEP 8: FINISH THE SEAM
Once you have sewn both sides of the zipper tape, close the zipper and gently press it flat. Switch to a standard presser foot, place the right sides of the fabric together, and move the zipper tails out of the way. Backstitch or hand-crank your needle to sew as closely as possible to the end of your stitching on the zipper. Finish the rest of the seam, and your closure is complete!
SHOP FOR INVISIBLE ZIPPERS AT WAWAK
Print or download this graphical how-to guide to installing invisible zippers.
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