WAWAK's Comprehensive Guide to Sewing Thread Types
- WAWAK
- 6 hours ago
- 8 min read
From delicate embroidery to heavy-duty leather work, sewing takes many forms—and so does the thread that holds it all together. Shimmery metallic thread for embroidery; elastic thread for stretch fabrics; soft, natural threads for quilting; versatile all-arounders for everyday sewing: take it from us, there are a lot of types of thread out there. In this post, we'll walk you through sewing thread types, finishes and materials, as well as how to choose a thread size and color for your project. Consider this a guide to everything you need to know to choose the perfect thread for your project every time. Once you're ready to make your pick, find the high-quality threads you need at WAWAK. Let’s get started!
CHOOSING THE RIGHT THREAD FOR YOUR PROJECT
The best starting point for choosing a sewing thread is your project itself. Before you even think about thread, it's best to decide what it is you'll be sewing and select a fabric for your project. From there, you'll be able to find the best possible match for your material in terms of weight, color, fiber, look and feel. You'll also want to keep in mind how you’ll use the thread—does it need to hold a garment together, or will the stitching be decorative? Maybe it's both! Does it need to be extra strong for heavy-duty applications, or require any special characteristics like elasticity or heat-resistance? Considering these factors will help you determine which thread type is best for your desired outcome. Let's break down a few of the most important thread characteristics to consider when choosing a thread, starting with thread material.
Thread Material
Threads are available in a variety of materials, each with its own unique properties. As a rule of thumb, it's usually a safe bet to match your thread material to your fabric content as closely as possible, using cotton thread for cotton fabrics, polyester thread for polyester, etc. However, this isn't a hard and fast rule, and it's helpful to understand a few characteristics of different materials to make the best choice. Some of the most common thread materials you'll see include polyester, cotton, cotton/polyester blends, and nylon. Here are a few advantages and characteristics of each:
Polyester thread is strong and durable, with some flexibility. It's considered an excellent all-purpose thread, applicable for most garments, bags, home decor, and even outdoor projects. Polyester is very colorfast, meaning the color holds up well over time, and is UV resistant, making it suitable for many outdoor applications.
Cotton thread offers a soft, natural look and feel that blends well with natural fiber fabrics.
It's typically not as strong as polyester thread and has minimal flexibility, so it's best used for applications without much stretch. Unlike synthetic fibers, cotton also offers natural heat-resistance, making it ideal for pressing and ironing. A favorite among quilters, these natural-fiber threads pair well with many cotton and linen fabrics, and can often be dyed.
For the best of both worlds, cotton/polyester blends are also available. Blending the heat-resistance and soft look of cotton with the flexibility and durability of polyester, these threads are an excellent choice for natural-fiber projects requiring a bit more stretch and strength, like denim garments or canvas bags.
Nylon thread is super strong and durable, with excellent flexibility. Due to its elasticity and strength, it's a common choice for sewing very stretchy fabrics, as well as serging, a technique where a specific style of machine encases the edge of the fabric in an overcast stitch. Some nylon threads are also bonded (more on that later!), making them applicable for heavy-duty uses like stitching upholstery.
Other Thread Materials
A variety of other thread materials are also available for more specialized applications: fine silk threads for high-end fabrics, high-shine rayon threads for machine embroidery, rubber threads for stretch sewing, Kevlar threads for industrial applications and many more. Explore all of WAWAK's available thread materials to dive deeper!
Thread Finishes & Treatments
Some threads are specially treated to enhance their strength and utility in specific sewing applications. Here are a few extra terms you might encounter when exploring different styles of sewing threads:
Bonded Threads: These threads are coated with a protective layer that makes them very strong, smooth and abrasion-resistant. They're commonly used for heavy-duty sewing, like leatherwork or industrial applications.
Mercerized Cotton Threads: These threads are treated with an alkaline solution, resulting in cotton threads with a smooth, shiny appearance and more strength and dyeability than unmercerized cotton. They're a popular choice for embroidery and quilting due to their lustrous appearance.
Waxed Threads: A coating of wax on these threads gives them extra strength and abrasion resistance for hand sewing, particularly for high-friction applications and heavy materials.
Thread Weight
Once you've decided on a thread material, it's time to choose a size. Thread sizes are measured by weight and denote how thick a thread is. Unfortunately, thread weights can be a bit confusing, as multiple different measuring systems are used across manufacturers and brands. The most common systems you'll see are Tex, Weight (Wt.) and Denier (D). At WAWAK, we use Tex to denote thread weights for accuracy and consistency. Tex is simple enough to understand: the higher the number, the thicker and heavier the thread. Typical lightweight sewing threads range from Tex 8-25, medium-weight sewing threads are Tex 25-40, and heavy-weight sewing threads are Tex 40 and up. Need to convert a thread weight from one system to another? Check out the chart below for a few common thread conversions, or use our Sewing Thread Conversion Chart to calculate your own.
Just as you match thread material to your project, you should also match the thread weight to your fabric. For lightweight fabrics like chiffon, light silks, or delicate clothing, use a thin, lightweight thread. For medium-weight fabrics like quilting cotton, everyday garment projects, and all-purpose stitching, choose a medium-weight thread. Or, select a heavy thread for thick, heavy materials like denim, leather, canvas, or upholstery. Using the correct thread weight helps ensure the thread is strong enough to hold seams together and helps create proper thread tension and stitch appearance.
QUICK TIP: USE OUR SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZE CHART TO FIND THE RIGHT NEEDLE SIZE FOR YOUR THREAD.
Color Selection and Colorfastness
When it comes to choosing a thread color, the choice is really up to you! Consider how you want your stitching to look. For a more subtle look, aim for the thread color that most closely matches the predominant color in your fabric. If you want your topstitching to stand out, aim for a contrasting color to make it pop.
If you often order thread online, it can be helpful to purchase a Thread Color Chart with swatches of the actual thread so you can compare your colors in person before you buy.
It's also a good idea to consider your thread's colorfastness, or its resistance to color fading. For decorative stitching that's visible on the outside of your work, like topstitching or embroidery, it's a good idea to choose a high-quality colorfast thread that can withstand repeated washes and wear without losing its vibrance.
TYPES OF SEWING THREADS
If all of these different options have you a bit overwhelmed, worry not! It's easy to narrow down exactly which thread you need by searching for threads by project type. Many sewing threads are designed for specific sewing applications, making it easy to find a suitable thread for any project. Let's take a look at a few essential styles of sewing thread.
If you're new to sewing or looking for a thread you can use across multiple materials and project types, All-Purpose Threads are a great place to start. These strong, flexible threads can be used on most knit or woven materials for garment construction, topstitching, quilting and much more.
Basting is a sewing technique that involves using long stitches to temporarily hold fabrics together before sewing them, as you would with pins. (Read more about this technique in our previous post about basting in sewing!) Designed for quick stitching and easy removal, Basting Threads glide through fabrics and can be broken by hand. While great for basting, these threads may be too weak for construction seams, so save these for temporary use!
Blind stitching is another sewing technique that really benefits from using the right thread. These fine, smooth threads, available in semi-translucent colors, help to create a nearly invisible stitch appearance for blind-stitched hems and more.
When you're working with stretch materials, sometimes you need a thread that stretches, too. Ideal for applications like swimwear, activewear and sportswear, these flexible threads can be used for various stretch sewing techniques. Create flexible seams that stretch with your materials or add stretch with techniques like smocking and shirring using these stretch and elastic threads.
Whether you're embroidering by hand or with a machine, use a vibrant, colorfast thread with an eye-catching sheen to bring your designs to life. Embroidery threads are available in a large selection of colors and various styles, including variegated and metallic threads for decorative applications.
Ideal for denim and other dense, heavy materials, Jean & Denim Threads are flexible and durable. They're the perfect choice for sewing jeans, denim jackets, workwear, topstitching and more. Choose from polyester or cotton/polyester denim threads to perfectly match your materials.
Find the right thread for quilting, piecing, edge stitching and applique with Quilting Threads. Choose from various 100% cotton or cotton/polyester threads with a smooth finish for hand or machine quilting.
Strong, lightweight serging threads are designed to withstand the high speeds and tensions of a serger machine with minimal shedding. These smooth, fine serger threads are intended only for use in serging machines; various weights, colors and materials are available.
Topstitching—stitching that's visible on the outside of your work—has to endure everyday wear and tear without losing its luster. These sleek threads offer durability and an eye-catching appearance perfect for topstitching handbags, leather goods, jeans, canvas and more.
For heavy-duty materials, choose a heavy-duty thread. Heavy-duty and upholstery threads are ideal for heavy applications like upholstered furniture, outdoor equipment, industrial applications, workwear, shoes, and leathercraft.
QUICK START CHECKLIST
Match fiber to fabric: As a rule of thumb, try to match your thread material to your fabric's fiber content. Use cotton or cotton blend threads for cotton fabric, polyester thread for synthetic materials, etc.
Pick the right weight: Choose a thread weight that corresponds to the weight of your fabric; lightweight threads for light fabrics, heavy thread for topstitching and dense fabrics, etc. Tex 25–40 threads are ideal for most medium-weight fabrics and general sewing.
Match color to fabric: Choose a thread in a similar color to your fabric for subtle seams, or a contrasting color for bold, visible stitching.
Choose the right thread type: Use a specialized thread for specific techniques like embroidery or stretch sewing, or choose an all-purpose thread for general sewing.
Specialty finishes: Special finishes are available for some applications, including mercerized cotton for glide and sheen, bonded polyester/nylon for high-friction applications and waxed thread for durable hand stitching.
FIND QUALITY THREADS AT WAWAK
No matter what style of sewing thread your project requires, WAWAK is ready to meet the moment. From delicate apparel to heavy-duty upholstery, we have the high-quality threads you need, ready to ship fast. Explore all-purpose threads for everyday durability, quilting threads for precise piecing, embroidery threads for vibrant designs and many more top-notch threads loved by sewing professionals and enthusiasts alike. Let's sew!
